My Criticisms of the Baby Steps

Based on my understanding of them, the Baby Steps have two main problems. One, the Baby Steps encourage people to work longer than they might otherwise wish. Two, people will pay higher than necessary management expense ratios (MERs).

One of the more controversial figures in the personal finance section of the Internet is Dave Ramsey. Among other things, he is famous for encouraging people to follow his Baby Steps.

When I was first starting down my own money journey, I happily devoured The Total Money Makeover. Even today, I still think that the Baby Steps are a great path for newbies who are looking for a way to get out of debt and to start building wealth. When I had student loans and car debt, I followed the Baby Steps and paid those off. Once debt-free, it was very nice to have some breathing room in my budget.

However, when I got to the step about investing 15%, I had to pause a little bit.

Criticism #1 – Working Longer than Necessary

My first concern with the Baby Steps is that they implicitly encourage people to spend 85% of their income once all non-mortgage debt has been repaid.

Allow me to exceptionally clear. THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH SAVING 15% OF YOUR INCOME! When there is a choice between saving nothing and saving something, always choose to save something. Then invest that money for long-term growth and go about the business of living.

However, I was fortunate enough to have learned about early retirement. I wanted to retire as soon as possible. Investing the recommended amount of 15% of my paycheque wasn’t going to do it for me. In short, investing only 15% of my income while spending the rest wouldn’t allow me to fulfill my goal of early retirement. I was not interested in working 30+ years if there was a viable option for me to still have a financially solid retirement while working for less than 3 decades!

As a result of my independent self-study, I had learned from other sources that a higher savings-and-investing rate meant a quicker path to financial independence. I’m certain that the Baby Steps will help most people get to a comfortable retirement at a traditional retirement age. And if the Baby Steps help someone to start their 15% investment plan in their 20s, I’m sure that they’ll have millions of dollars after 30+ years of work.

My life’s dreams didn’t involve working for 30+ years. My career has a lot of perks, but jumping out of bed each morning in gleeful anticipation of another day at the office is not one of them.

Fortunately for me, I had the ability to save more than 15% of my income once all my non-mortgage debt was eliminated. At this point, I seriously deviated from Dave Ramsey’s plan. Firstly, I paid off my mortgage in my mid-thirties. Then I took my former bi-weekly mortgage payment and started investing it. To be clear, that former mortgage payment was more than 15% of my take-home pay. I first maxed out my RRSP, then I maxed out my TFSA contribution room. Once that was done, I started contributing to my non-registered investment accounts. Over the years, I’ve benefitted from raises. Generally speaking, two-thirds of each raise went to my investments and the remaining third went to improving my present-day life by spending on those little luxuries that make me happy.

I am not encouraging anyone to deviate from the Baby Steps if they want to work for as long as possible. There are people in this world who love their jobs! Saving and investing only 15% of income works beautifully for these people. They get to spend their money today, while enjoying their jobs, and will still retire at traditional retirement age with a nice, fat cash cushion. If this is you, then I congratulate you on having found a way to make money doing something you love.

It just seems to me that the Baby Steps should say “invest 15% or more of your household income in retirement.” Adding those two little words would plant the seed that retirement can come sooner if you so wish. I’ve met more than a few people who’ve expressed the desire to quit working, but cannot yet do so because they need the paycheque. For these folks, saving the recommended 15% doesn’t get them closer to their goal of retiring sooner rather than later.

Criticism #2 – Paying Higher-than-Necessary MERs

My second issue with the Baby Steps is related to Dave Ramsey’s love of mutual funds. I’ve listened to him on YouTube where he consistently exhorts his listeners to invest in mutual funds.

In the interests of transparency, I admit that there was a time when I invested in mutual funds. I was younger and less knowledgeable about the costs of equity products. It’s been years since I divested myself of those products and moved into exchange traded funds with VanguardCanada and iShares. There was one main reason that I exited from mutual funds and went into exchange traded funds.

Mutual funds are consistently more expensive than exchange traded funds and index funds. This is because mutual funds charge higher MERs than their ETF/index fund equivalent. Think of the MER as the cost of the product. The returns on my mutual funds were not twice as good as the returns on my ETFs, even though the MER might be twice as high (or many multiples higher!) on a mutual fund than on an ETF. If the mutual funds’ performance had justified the higher price, then I would have continued paying a higher price. When I realized I could get the same performance for a lower price, I hastily moved out of mutual funds and put my money to work in ETFs. I’ve never regretted my choice.

So when I listen to Dave Ramsey talk about how wonderful mutual funds are, I have to ask myself why wouldn’t he tell his listeners to invest in equivalent yet cheaper ETFs? The same performance for a lower price seems to be a good thing for the people following his advice.

I have never heard a persuasive explanation for why people should pay higher MERs when an equivalent and cheaper product readily available.

Take a look at this MER calculator. It demonstrates that higher MERs result in smaller portfolios over any given period of time, all else being equal. The longer you’re investing your money, the bigger the MER-bite. Whenever possible, invest in an ETF or an index fund instead of a mutual fund. You should not be paying an MER higher than 0.3%.

So that’s it in a nutshell. Though they are a great starting point, I hope that I have articulated my two biggest problems with the Baby Steps. I sincerely hope that this blog post has given you more information about how to influence how much longer you’ll have to work. The secret is to invest more today so you don’t have to work as long tomorrow. Whenever you do invest, pick exchange traded funds instead of mutual funds to keep costs down and to maximize the amount of money working on your behalf. Lower MERs ensure that a higher percentage of every invested dollar works for you as you pursue your investment goals.

At the end of the day, the choice of how much and where to invest is yours. If you want to work for as long possible, while paying more in investment costs, then follow Dave Ramsey’s plan to the letter. If you’d like to have the option of attaining financial independence as soon as you can,then invest more than 15% of your next income and choose ETFs over mutual funds.

Mistakes with Money – Hindsight is 20/20

As I’ve said before, you need not make every mistake yourself. You can learn from the mistakes of others and make better choices for yourself. Luckily for you, my hindsight is 20/20. If you’re facing the choice between paying off your debt or investing your money for growth, perhaps my experience can offer you some insight into the best choice of your circumstances.

Roughly 14.5 years ago, I had a choice between paying off my primary mortgage or investing a six-figure lump sum of money into the stock market. At the time, I owned two rental properties and my tenants both told me they would be moving. Faced with the prospect of having empty rental units, I immediately chose to sell. It literally never occurred to me that I could get new tenants. I was a young landlord who hadn’t heard of people like Brandon Turner of Bigger Pockets or Coach Carson. No one in my family owned rental properties so I didn’t know where to find the mentorship or guidance that would have opened my eyes to my many options.

Unfortunately, I reacted poorly and made a decision out of fear. Instead of doing a basic Google search on what to do when tenants move out, I sold off my rentals within weeks of each other. The housing market in my corner of the world was on fire!!! I’m sure it was the easiest money my realtor had ever made.

I took the proceeds from my rental properties and paid off my primary residence. Within a few weeks, I was completely debt-free! Woohoo!

What would’ve happened if I’d invested that money and kept my mortgage?

Firstly, I would not have had to pay a penalty. The mists of time have obscured the exact numbers, but I do seem to recall paying a penalty for breaking the mortgage on my primary home. Where I live, you can break a mortgage without penalty if you’re selling your home. However, if you’re simply paying off the mortgage, then the bank wants you to pay the interest that would’ve been paid as per the mortgage contract.

I was younger, financially un-sophisticated, and completely committed to being debt-free. So what did I do? I paid a 5-figure penalty to break my mortgage. That was definitely a money mistake! I had the cash from my two rental properties. I could’ve simply carved out a chunk of it to cover the remaining years’ payments under my mortgage agreement, and thereby avoided the penalty, while investing the rest. When the mortgage was up for renewal in a few years after the sale of my rentals, I could have just paid off the mortgage debt in full. Alternatively, I could have invested the whole lump sum and simply kept up with my regular mortgage payments until the mortgage was discharged.

By paying off the mortgage on my primary home, I didn’t invest as much as I could have in the stock market as soon as I possibly could. If I’d invested those proceeds in the market, then I’d be a hell of a lot closer to my original goal of retiring at 50.

We know that, up until the onset of the pandemic, the stock market has rewarded investors with a very long bull-run. Full equity portfolios have done amazingly well between 2009 and 2020. Brace yourself! My rental proceeds were over $100,000. Had I been as wise then as I am now, I would’ve invested that lump-sum of cash and continued with my life-long habit of investing a chunk of my paycheque every time I got paid. My investment portfolio would’ve definitely landed me in the Double-Comma Club by now…. and my mortgage would still have been paid off in good order.

Instead, I focused on becoming debt-free. I chose to pay off my debt instead of investing for my future. My actions were not aligned with my goals.

Why weren’t they aligned?

That’s a good question. Thinking back, my own ignorance about investing is the root cause of the mis-alignment. I didn’t know as much then as I do now. Also, I’d been watching the global monetary chaos created by the financial crisis in 2007-2008 and I wanted no part of it. Being debt-free felt safe. I didn’t have the luxury of relying on someone else’s paycheque to support my household. I very much craved the security of owing not a single nickel to anyone! In other words, I let my ignorance and my fear of being in debt guide my actions.

That global financial crisis caused the stock market to drop. Today, I know that such declines are to be relished because they are excellent buying opportunities. Steep drops mean that the stock market has gone on sale, and that it’s time to load up on quality investments in good companies. Back then, I naively determined that the “smart” course of action was to wait until things settled down before investing any money in the market. As I’ve written before, I waited far too long to start investing. Sigh… this is why hindsight is 20/20. Coulda-woulda-shoulda! I delayed the implementation of my investment strategy for years. It was the wrong move!

Now that I’m older, and wiser, I realize that I should have invested my lump sum. The market started its recovery in 2009. Sure, I would have invested in 2006 and then I would have gone through the rough years until the recovery started. It wouldn’t have been terribly fun, but it would have been quite profitable. Like I said earlier, that course of action would have gotten me much closer to my financial goals.

Don’t feel too, too sorry for me. Like I said, I used that lump sum to pay off my house. I haven’t had a mortgage on my principle residence in over 14 years! Trust me when I say it’s a good feeling. Not having a mortgage means a smaller overhead for my life. My emergency fund need not include 6-9 months of mortgage payments. I don’t have to worry that the bank is going to take away my home. Instead of forking over mortgage payments, I can make contributions to my investment portfolio. I sleep better knowing that my largest debt is in my rearview mirror.

Like they say – if I knew then what I know now, I would’ve made different choices. Hindsight is 20/20…c’est la vie!

Find Serenity in What You Can Control

Sometimes, I think that people procrastinate about starting their investment portfolios because they don’t understand every element of how various investment products work. They’re afraid to invest and to lose their money. I can understand that fear completely. Believe me when I say that I share that fear too!

However, it’s a fear that can be tamed if you can find serenity in what you can control.

Here’s the thing. No one can control the stock market. Contrary to what you see from the Talking Heads of Financial Media, there really isn’t any way to control what happens in the future. People can predict – they can approximate – they can calculate likelihoods. These are fancy way of saying that the chinwag is simply a guess. It might even be an educated one, but it’s a guess all the same. Allow me to assure you that there is not a single one among us who always knows which stock will soar like Facebook or tank like Enron, ascend like Tesla or plunge like Bre-X.

You can’t control the vagaries of the stock market nor their impact on your investment portfolio. Only God knows what’s going to happen with any particular stock in the future.

That said… there are three areas where you do have control. Your choices in these areas will have a significant impact on the growth of your investment portfolio. Think of these areas as levers that can be manipulated to increase the odds of you amassing great big buckets of cash. If you manipulate all three levers, then you can vastly improve your portfolio’s return.

Amount and Frequency

You control the size of the contributions to your investment portfolio. How much you save is the single most important factor influencing the amount of money you ultimately accumulate. The more you save and invest, the faster your money will compound and grow. The best returns in the world will not get you to your goal if you don’t actually contribute money to your investment account.

Play around with this compound interest calculator if you don’t believe me. At a steady rate of return, a higher contribution grows faster than a lower contribution. In other words, a $500 contribution will compound faster than a $100 contribution.

The second most important factor, in my humble opinion, is the frequency of the contributions. I’m paid every two weeks, so I contribute to my investments every two weeks. Personally, I think it’s best to contribute when you have the money to do so. You should always pay yourself first when you get paid. That means taking some portion of your income and investing it for growth. If you haven’t read it yet, get your hands on a copy of The Automatic Millionaire by David Bach. It’s great!

If you’re paid bi-weekly, then contribute bi-weekly. Paid monthly? Invest monthly. Go back to the calculator and compare the difference in future value between investing monthly and investing annually. The difference is attributable to the effect of compounding.

My advice to you is to invest as much as you can as early as you can. Start harnessing the power of compounding interest immediately.

Control Your Fees

A second very powerful lever within your control is the management expense ratio (MER) of your investment product. The MER is the fee that you pay to the purveyor of the investment you buy. In short, it’s a skim from every dollar you invest and that money is spent to pay salaries & overhead to make the investment available to you.

You control the impact of these fees on your portfolio by choosing investment products that have lower MER fees while delivering equivalent results. You are the person who is choosing the products where your money will be invested. (Or maybe you’ll go with an investment advisor. I don’t have an investment advisor.)

Mutual funds are more expensive than exchange-traded funds and index funds. However, they both allow you to invest in equity products and bond products. My opinion is that it does not make sense to pay more for an investment when an equally good one is available at a lower price. However, if you want to pay a 2% MER (or higher!) on your investments, instead of a 0.25% MER for the same investments, then you are free to do so. You are an adult and, after all, it’s your money. You earned it and you get to decide what to do with it.

However, please make an informed decision. Take a look at this investment fee calculator to see the impact that fees have on your portfolio’s overall performance. If you’d rather have less money at the end of your investment horizon, then go with the higher MER. However, if you’re interested in maximizing your cash cushion, then choose investments with low MERs.

In the interests of transparency, I can state that none of the MERs I pay are higher than 0.25%. That means for every $1000 that I invest, I pay my investment company $2.50. If I had to pay an MER of 2%, then I would be paying $20.

Imagine having a nice 6-figure nest egg of $750,000. Would you rather pay $1,875 per year in MERs of 0.25%? or $15,000 per year in MERs at 2%?

Duration of Systematic Contributions

This is just a fancy way of saying that you are in charge of how long you make contributions to your investment portfolio. How long are you willing to commit to investing for your future?

I’ve always been a nerd about money, and I’ve been contributing to my investment portfolio for 2.5 decades. Let’s just say that I’m old enough to remember the Freedom 55 commercials and they struck a chord with me. I’ve been gunning for early retirement ever since!

I won’t lie to you. Without a lottery win, inheritance, or sizeable payout from somewhere, it’s going to take a good amount of time to build an investment portfolio that’s capable of replacing your income. If you’re living on 50% of your take-home pay, you can get it done in less than 17 years. Don’t believe me? Check out this handy-dandy little calculator if you want to play around with your own numbers.

For most of us, it’s going to take many years of steady investing to build a nest egg. You are in charge of whether you start now or tomorrow. In other words, you’re the person who controls whether to procrastinate on such a long-term endeavour. Once you do get started, you’re also the person who’s in charge of whether to continue investing.

Investment Portfolios Don’t Fund Themselves

Now that you know what you can control, put that knowledge to good use. Set aside a chunk of every paycheque and use an automatic transfer to make sure it’s re-directed to your investment account. Pick investments that are diversified and geared toward long-term growth. Make sure your investments have MERs under 0.5%. Keep investing and ignore the Talking Heads. Over the long-term, the stock market goes up. Day to day gyrations should not guide your investment choices. You’re in this for the long-term.

Never stop learning! Read books and blogs. Ask questions. Remind yourself that when you know better, you do better. It’s best to make mistakes with small amounts money than with large amounts of money. So when you make a mistake, forgive yourself and learn from it then move on. Find serenity in what you can control.

The time will pass anyway. Why not start today?

Banks are not evil – they’re simply a tool.

Truth be told, it took me a very long time to realize that banks are a tool that will help me achieve my personal finance goals. Every three months, the Big Banks release their earnings. More often than not, those earnings are in the billions, if not the hundreds of millions. And people start frothing with anger at the size of those quarterly earnings. Ink is spilled all over the Internet about how banks are evil and their earnings are obscene.

Two days later, the angry mob has moved on to some other topic upon which to unleash their rage. The banks go back to the business of earning more money so they can hit their next quarterly target.

And I wonder to myself if any one person in the mob realized that banks are a tool?

How banks make money

First off, I want to be very clear that I’m not an expert on the banking industry. I’m just an online citizen who has watched banks operate for the past 35+ years. I even used to work as a bank teller, which was an incredibly educational experience. However, being a bank teller and being a banking expert are two wildly different things.

I’ll share with you what I know.

Banks take money from depositors then lend it to borrowers to earn money. This is the heart of banking. Everything else is a detail.

Depositors have bank accounts and they expect to earn interest on their deposits. As we all know, most bank accounts pay less than 1% interest. Every so often, an online account has a higher rate but it’s usually not anything to get overly excited about.

Banks lend money to people at rates that are higher than what they pay to their depositors. See, from the bank’s perspective, the 1% interest rate is a liability because the bank owes money to someone. Money that’s lent out to borrowers is an asset because it’s going to earn money for the bank.

If the bank owes Depositor 1% per year on a $10,000 bank account, then the bank has a $100 liability since it has to find a way to pay $100 to Depositor in a year’s time. How does the bank do that?

Easy. The bank takes the Depositor’s money – $10,000 – and loans it to Borrower at a rate of 5%. Borrower has promised to repay the bank $500 in a year’s time, because 5% of $10,000 is $500. The Borrower’s $500 debt is the bank’s asset.

The bank collects $500 from Borrower, and pays $100 to Depositor. The bank keeps the $400 spread for itself. Now, I’m sure there are expenses that go along with running a bank, procuring loans, administration of bank accounts, and staffing costs. Whatever is left after paying those expenses is the bank’s profit.

Banks are good at making profits.

Understanding the spread between what is owed to depositors and what is earned from borrowers is what keeps banks profitable.

So how do you turn this to your advantage?

It’s very simple, Gentle Reader. Banks are a tool for you as soon as you buy your first bank share.

Remember how I said that bank earnings are reported quarterly? One of the best features of banks is that they pay dividends to their shareholders. The more bank shares you own, the more dividends you’ll receive.

I used to get irate over bank fees. How dare the bank charge me for using my money? The little vein in my temple would visibly throb if ever I saw so much as a $1 taken from my account to cover an ATM withdrawal, or for anything else.

Eventually, this financial annoyance was removed from my life through 2 actions that I took. First, I opened bank accounts with institutions that did not charge bank fees for daily banking. I was no longer paying bank fees every month. Secondly, I started earning money from everyone else who chose to continue paying bank fees. I bought shares in banks and cashed the dividend cheques every quarter.

I can confidently say that the idea of bank fees no longer enrages me. Even if I do mess up and bounce a cheque, I might have to pay the $35 NSF fee. However, I know that I’ll be getting my money back in a few weeks’ time via my next dividend payment. That fee is a nuisance, but hardly a reason for me to get upset.

Banks are necessary.

I firmly believe that everyone needs atleast two bank accounts – a chequing account and a savings account. The chequing account is for your day to day money. It’s for receiving your paycheque, buying your groceries, paying utilities bills, and the expenses of day-to-day life. Your savings account is for your emergency fund. It’s meant to be a liquid pool of funds that can cover 6-12 months of your monthly expenses. Some people argue that an emergency fund can be 3 months of expenses. I’m a big believer in the idea that more money is better when an emergency strikes so it can’t hurt to have more than the minimum.

Banks are not evil, in and of themselves. Used properly, they facilitate the transfer of money into your investment account. You know that I’m a huge fan of automatic transfers. I’m a proponent of paying yourself first. A portion of every paycheque should be sent to your investment account, so that it can start working to ensure the Future You has a financially comfortable lifestyle.

For my part, I have several bank accounts. And all of them are designated for a specific purpose. Some accounts hold money for my annual travel. (Even during the pandemic, I’ve socked away a few coins for the eventual day when I feel comfortable enough sharing a plane with others.) Other accounts hold money for my annual insurance premiums and property taxes. I have an account for little luxuries like my theatre subscription to Broadway Across Canada. There’s also an account for maintenance and repairs to my home.

Again, banks are a tool – they’re not evil. Learn to use them properly and you’ll find that they offer many great methods for handling your money. Better yet, become a shareholder and receive a slice of their profits every three months. I’ve no doubt you’ll enjoy the feeling of the banks paying you instead of the other way around!

The Secret Sauce Isn’t Being Bright

Being bright isn’t a requirement to being successful with personal finance and investing. I speak from personal experience as I don’t consider myself to be overly bright. There are many people in my circle who are much smarter than me and who learn things much faster than I do. Their net worths are not necessarily larger than mine. It’s taken me a long time to accept the fact that being bright has very little to do with whether someone will succeed in the realm of money.

Those who’ve read this blog for a little while know that I’ve erred during my investment journey. I’m the first to admit that I’m not the smartest investor in the room. I’ve made so many mistakes!

  • When I first started investing years ago, I put my money into mutual funds instead of index funds and exchange-traded funds.
  • Investing in mutual funds instead of index funds & ETFs means I paid higher management expense ratios than I needed to pay.
  • I invested in dividend-based ETFs instead of buying equity-based ETFs.
  • I didn’t earn as much as I could have during the 10-year stock market bull run that ended in February of 2020. (D’oh! How I would love to be able to unwind that mistake.)
  • And I don’t increase the rent on my rental property every year. I’m sure there are some in the real estate investment community who see this as a very grave mistake.

Despite these mistakes (and I’ve made way more than 5), I’ve learned that you don’t have to be all that bright to do well in personal finance. You do need to have disposable income, since you can’t invest what you don’t have. I’ve crafted a list of traits that I believe are essential to successfully building wealth.

Being smart is not one of the traits!

You have to start from where you are. No investor has ever made money without starting to invest. Thinking about investing is great but people don’t earn 7% returns on investments they only dream about. They only earn returns on money that’s actually invested in real life, whether that’s in the stock market, in real estate, or in a business. Investing your first dollar isn’t a function of being bright. It’s a function of taking action.

Consistency isn’t dependent on how bright you are either. I’m a huge fan of automated transfers. Every time I get paid, some of my net income is siphoned away from my chequing account. That money is invested to pay for my future goals: retirement, travel, house renovations, whatever. If the money is for a planned purchase that’s not part of my day-to-day basic life, such as groceries, gasoline, and utilities, then the money is automatically whisked into various accounts and it stays in place until it’s time to make those future purchases. Automated transfers have ensured that I’ve always had money going towards my investments.

No one needs to be all that bright to be disciplined. You’ll need to be disciplined if you’re going to stick to your priorities. You’re the only expert when it comes to how best to spend your money because only you know what’s most important to you when it comes time to spend it. It also means that you’re the only one who’s responsible to say “No” to the things that don’t move you towards your dreams. Believe me when I say that there is alway someone who wants your money. Being bright is not a pre-condition of only spending your money in ways that align with your priorities.

Finally, never stop learning. Like I said earlier, I’m not particularly bright. And it takes a long time for me to learn new things and for concepts to sink it. THAT’S OKAY!!!! Learning at my own pace isn’t an obstacle to achieving my goals. If anything, it’s a benefit. Once I’ve been exposed to a new concept, I can learn it as thoroughly as I want to. And once I’ve done that, I can determine whether it will help me meet my financial priorities.

No one is grading your progress.

I’m not in school anymore. There’s no teacher under a time pressure to get through a pre-set curriculum. I’m my own teacher now. Taking as much time as I need to teach myself a particular concept is a good thing in real life. Unlike a school setting, there isn’t a fixed number of hours to be spent teaching one concept before the teacher moves on to the next one. I’ve been investing for over 25 years, and I still don’t understand how Price-to-Earnings ratios work. Is it better if they’re high or low? What exactly do they mean? Do they fluctuate every day? What are the factors that impact them?

Hear me now: I’ve been investing in the stock market for 25+ years, and I did not let my ignorance about P/E ratios stop me from building a solid portfolio that kicks off a nice amount of dividends each year. Admittedly, I’m not a stock-picker. In other words, I don’t buy individual stocks after analyzing their annual reports and doing research into both the company and the industry. If I were an investor who had gone the stock picking route, then I would have learned a lot more about P/E ratios and other nuanced stuff. The information is out there and I would have spent my time learning about it.

When it comes to being good with your money, habits will always beat brains in the long run. Being smart isn’t what helped me the most. Having the investing habit and putting automatic transfers in place has been my secret sauce. Together, these tools have been tremendously more beneficial for my portfolio and for meeting my short-term goals. Once I had prioritized how to spend my money, relying on habits and tools propelled me towards attaining my goals.

Being bright is not an indicator of whether you will be successful in handling your money. Again, speaking from personal experience, you can make stupid money mistakes and still set yourself up for future financial success.

5 Traits to Become Wealthy

Ever since I started learning about personal finance, I’ve noted that those who are successful at it have 5 traits in common. These 5 traits appear regardless of the path taken. Some people invested in the stock market, either through stock picking, mutual funds, or exchange-traded funds. Others became real estate investors and built a portfolio of rental properties. Then there’s the group of people who only invested in their retirement accounts and grew those a nice 7-figure amount before retirement.

Regardless of the path chosen, the people who accumulated a comfortable cash cushion all appear to have relied on the same 5 traits to become wealthy.

The Word “No”

To my mind, saying “No” is fundamental to achieving your goals. There will always be someone or something who wants your money. If you’re unable to say “No” to the requests that stop you from meeting your priorities, then how will you ever be able to create the life that you want?

Gathering the funds to meet your financial objectives will require you to use the word “No”, a lot. Let’s pretend that you want to start investing in real estate. Unless you can use the strategies Richard Fain discusses in this video, you’ll need a down payment to get into the real estate market. Saving for a down payment may take you a year or two. If you don’t use the word “No” when faced with other opportunities to spend, then it’s going to take you considerably longer to achieve your goal.

Delayed Gratification

This trait is a kissing cousin of the first one. It’s the ability to say “No…not right now.” It’s the ability to delay saying “yes” to whatever it is that you might want.

Instead of going into debt to buy something today, you save up the cash and buy it tomorrow.

Delayed gratification keeps you out of debt. If you pay cash, then you’re not using credit. When you don’t use credit, then you don’t pay interest to a creditor. The beauty of not paying interest is that more of your money can be spent on the pursuit of your life’s dreams.

Be honest with yourself. Wouldn’t you prefer to spend your money on your dreams instead of spending your money to pay off debts for purchases that don’t align with your financial desires?

Sinking Funds

My long-time readers know that I love sinking funds! I use them all the time because they help me to organize and track my money so that I can get what I prioritize most. Between sinking funds and automatic transfers, I very rarely need to think about how I’m going to pay for things. My paycheque lands in my chequing account. My automatic transfers whisk pre-determined amounts of money to each of my sinking funds. Whatever’s left over once the transfers have done their task is mine to spend freely.

  • Retirement money? Check!
  • Emergency funds? Check!
  • Insurance premiums? Check!
  • TFSA contribution? Check!
  • House renovations? Check!
  • Travel money? Check!
  • Utilities? Check!
  • Charitable donations? Check!

Your priorities will determine your sinking funds. If you want to buy your first home, or your first rental property, then you’ll have a sinking fund for your down payment. This is where you’ll direct a certain portion of your income until you have the down payment that you need to make your purchase. This sinking fund might be in place for one year, two years, five years, or more. It hardly matters. What does matter is that you are saving money towards one of the goals that is most important to you.

Some sinking funds will last longer than other. For example, your retirement funds are just a long-term sinking fund. You save and invest money in a retirement account so that the funds can replace your paycheque when you stop working for a living. However, your sinking fund for utilities exists to hold money that will be spent within the next 30 days. The money goes in – the bills arrive – the money goes out to pay the bills.

Whether designed to pay for long-term goals like retirement or financial independence, or to pay for short-term goals like paying your utilities, sinking funds are integral part of your financial toolbox.

Living Below Your Means

If you earn $60,000 and spend every penny, then there’s no way to build wealth. Your net worth remains at $0 because nothing is set aside for investing.

However, earning $60,000 and spending $59,000 means that there’s $1,000 available for investing. That $1,000 is available because you made the choice to live below your means. The money can go towards the down payment on a real estate purchase. It can be invested for retirement. It can be the seed money for a business.

Leftover money doesn’t happen by accident. Trust me – there is no amount of money that cannot be spent. The more you earn, the more spending opportunities you will find. The duty to impose spending limits in your life rests solely on your shoulders .

Money

Surprised that I saved this one for last?

You shouldn’t be. Its priority in this list is irrelevant. Whether you earn a little or a lot, wealth will always elude you if you can’t implement the first 4 traits that I’ve already discussed.

Let’s say you earn $250,000 every month…but you don’t know how to say “No” when presented with the opportunity to rent a yacht for the week to party in Monaco. And you’ll need to rent a private jet to get there since you can’t rely on traditional airlines to get you there on time. Let’s face it – when you’re earning $3Million per year, do you really want to travel on Air Canada? Or even British Airways if you can afford to rent a private jet for you and a few of your closest friends?

Let’s say that you earn $35,000 in a year, and you manage to set aside $3,000. You are living beneath your means. Those dollars might be allocated between a variety of sinking funds. You employed the trait of delayed gratification. The reason you have that $3,000 in the first place is because you said “No” to the various requests for your money.

Unless you impose some kind of spending limit on yourself, the money will be gone. It doesn’t matter how much you earn. This is why the simple act of earning money is insufficient proof that a person is also building wealth. It takes all 5 traits to become wealthy.

Without the first 4 traits, no amount of money will make you wealthy because you will spend it all. You cannot be financially wealthy without money.

The Wisdom of my Folks

When I was growing up, my parents always encouraged to be a professional. I was told to aim for dentistry, medicine, and law. My parents wanted me to be a professional so that I could always create a job for myself. They knew, and wanted me to understand, that working for someone else meant that my financial security would be subject to my employer’s whim. They wanted me to have the security that comes from having the power to earn my own income.

This post is about reminding you that your wage is a burden your employer tolerates until such time as it can be eliminated. It’s not personal – it’s just business. The goal of a business is to maximize profits. This goal is met by lowering a business’ expenses. Your salary is an expense that your employer is always looking to trim and/or eliminate.

One of your goals should be to start, maintain, and grow a financial foundation. You shouldn’t be at the mercy of an employer forever. There should come a point in your life where you’re working because you want to, not because you have to.

Not everyone can be a professional, Blue Lobster!

I hear you, and I agree with that sentiment. Fortunately for you, there is one proven way for you to protect your financial health from the risk of losing your paycheque.

That method is called planting your money tree and making it grow. Not everyone can be a professional – this is true. But nearly everyone has the ability to set some money aside to create an investment portfolio.

Protect your financial health by having a stream of income that’s independent from your paycheque. Work on increasing that money stream until it’s big enough for you to survive on just in case your paycheque disappears at an inconvenient moment. Dividends, capital gains, interest on savings accounts – these are all forms of income that, if sufficient in quantity, can be used to replace your paycheque should the need arise.

You have an obligation to Future You to construct a solid financial foundation. Building your investment portfolio will create a waterfall of income that will eventually replace your paycheque. Investing your money for long-term growth today will allow you to substitute your paycheque with investment income tomorrow.

Nothing lasts forever.

Make no mistake – your paycheque will eventually disappear for one reason or another. You’ll get fired. Or maybe you’ll get too sick to work. Maybe your employer’s business will fail. Hopefully, you’ll retire on your own terms. Only the poorest among us are required to work until the day they die because of their finances. If you choose to work until your dying breath, make sure that you’re doing so because you want to and not because you have to.

The wisdom of my folks boils down to the following. A professional has more control over their income stream than an employee. If you’re a professional working for yourself, then there’s no conflict of interest because you’re both the boss and the employee. In both roles, your goal is to increase your profit because it is your income. When you work for someone else, they will increase their profit by reducing your income if they can. And if your salary can’t be reduced, then there’s always the option of simply not increasing it. This is a situation where the interests of the employer and the employee are at odds. As a professional, working for yourself puts the interests of the employer (you) and the employee (also you) in alignment.

I remember working in a grocery store when I was in high school and undergrad. I started at $6/hr. My salary went up every six months until I hit $9/hr. My boss told me that was the top range for a cashier. At the time, I just accepted it because what choice did I have? Well, I had a lot of choices but was not knowledgeable about them. I could’ve found another part-time job. I could’ve moved to the competitor, who was paying more. However, I didn’t know any better so I stayed. My point is that my employer imposed a limit on how much I could earn. I couldn’t do anything about that situation since I wasn’t my own boss. I wasn’t a professional.

It’s your choice.

Always remember that you have choices about where to put your disposable income. By my definition, disposable income is what is spent on the wants and not on the needs. If you’re already tucking a good chunk of your disposable income into your investment portfolio, then good on you. For the rest of you, what are you waiting for?

Having disposable income allows you to increase the odds that you will have a stream of income when your paycheque eventually goes away. Invest your money for long-term growth so that it’s working as hard as you do. Consistently invest from every paycheque you receive. People will tell you not to invest until all your other debt is gone. I no longer agree with that view. To my mind, time is too precious a resource. You need your investments to bake for as long as possible, even as you’re working hard to eliminate your debts.

Similarly, there’s a lot of debate about how much to save. Some argue for a bare minimum of 10%. Others push for 15%. My personal view is that you should save as much as you can, as soon as you can. Building an investment portfolio whose income stream will eventually replace your paycheque will take a long time for most of us. The sooner you start, the better.

We can’t all be professionals working for ourselves. Yet, it is still possible for the majority of us to reduce the fear of losing our paycheques. All that needs to be done is to start, build, and maintain an investment portfolio of our very own. It’s a very big goal and it might take decades to achieve. That doesn’t matter and you shouldn’t let it deter you. Future You needs to be fed, clothed, housed, and nurtured. Start taking care of Future You today.

************

Weekly Tip: Cut back on how much TV you watch so you can get rid of cable. And you need not subscribe to every streaming service out there. Doing so means that eventually, your subscriptions will cost just as much as cable and you will be no further ahead.